Baklahorani is an annual carnival celebrated in Istanbul, Turkey, especially in the Kurtuluş (formerly Tatavla) neighbourhood. Traditionally held on Clean Monday, the last day before Lent, it brings together locals and visitors for masked parades, music, and dancing.
- Masked parade through Istanbul's Greek neighbourhoods
- Traditional Greek and Anatolian folk dances
- Celebration culminates at Saint Demetrius Church in Kurtuluş
- Revived in 2010 after a 66-year ban
- Open to all, not just the Greek community
What it is
Baklahorani is a lively carnival marking the end of the pre-Lenten season for Istanbul's Greek Orthodox community. Rooted in the neighbourhood of Kurtuluş, formerly known as Tatavla, the festival is a joyful gathering where people don costumes, play music, and dance in the streets. While it began as a Greek tradition, Baklahorani has long welcomed people from all backgrounds, making it a celebration of both community and diversity. Today, it stands as a symbol of Istanbul's multicultural heritage, drawing together residents and visitors to share in its festive spirit.
Where it comes from
The origins of Baklahorani stretch back centuries, with Greek communities in Istanbul celebrating pre-Lent festivities for nearly five hundred years. The carnival reached its peak in the 19th century, culminating on Clean Monday with a grand parade and communal dancing. The name 'Baklahorani' means 'I eat beans,' nodding to the Lenten dietary customs. After World War II, the festival was banned in 1943 due to a law against wearing masks, reflecting broader social pressures on non-Muslim communities. In 2010, after nearly seventy years, Baklahorani was revived, reconnecting Istanbul with a vibrant piece of its past.
How it is celebrated
The heart of Baklahorani is a masked parade that winds through Istanbul's historic Greek neighbourhoods, gathering crowds along the way. Participants dress in traditional costumes—young men often wear fustanella skirts and fake beards, while women might choose low-cut garments—and paint their faces with flour or coal. The air fills with the sounds of drums, zurnas, clarinets, and mandolins, as people dance tsamiko and Anatolian folk dances. The parade draws together groups from across the city, converging in the square outside Saint Demetrius Church in Kurtuluş. Along the route, children ride swings and merry-go-rounds, and everyone joins in singing folk songs. The celebration is open to all, inviting neighbours and newcomers alike to share in the music, laughter, and sense of togetherness.
Joining in
If you visit Istanbul during Baklahorani, head to the Kurtuluş neighbourhood to experience the festivities. The main parade and celebrations take place in the streets around Saint Demetrius Church, with music, dancing, and colourful costumes. As a visitor, you can watch the parade, enjoy the lively atmosphere, and even join in the dancing. The event is open and welcoming, reflecting the spirit of community that defines Baklahorani.
Sources and attribution
This page is Mela's own summary, written in new words. Its facts are drawn from the Wikipedia article Baklahorani, whose text is available under the CC BY-SA 4.0 licence, and from its Wikidata record (CC0). Each photo is credited to its author beside it. For the full account, read the originals below.
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